I feel as if it’s 1996 and we’re living the Sokal Hoax all over again.
The NY Times reports, apparently without shrieks of laughter, on a conference on – wait for it – queer food.
When Sasha DuBose uses the word “queer” to talk about food, it’s a verb, not an adjective. To Ms. DuBose, queering food is “taking how we define food and how we engage with it and twisting it, making it more fun.”
But food people already do that. It’s called coming up with new recipes.
Besides which, there is no one way that people “engage with” food. There are a vast, unmanageable number of ways people engage with food. Oddly enough, humans are very interested in food – I think it might possibly be because we need it to survive. People have been “queering” food as long as they’ve been eating it. In a famine people will eat absolutely anything, out of desperation.
To her, queer food is also okra.
“They way you slice into okra and it’s crunchy and ooshy-gushy — a lot of people think it’s weird,” said Ms. DuBose, a nonbinary transgender lesbian who will soon graduate from the food studies program at New York University. “But okra is queer.”
Ok first of all, what the fuck is a nonbinary transgender lesbian? Pick one, child. It’s just greedy to pick all of them and you’ll end up puking on your queer shoes.
But then, oh shut up. Unfamiliar foods are unfamiliar; what else is new?
Queer food can be so many things, depending who’s cooking, eating or serving. During the conference, queer food was defined as meals made by queer chefs and home cooks. But it was also far broader, almost without boundaries. It was the pie thrown in the face of the anti-gay rights activist Anita Bryant, the gastro-narratives of queer people in El Paso, Texas, and the food served at “topless lesbian gatherings,” as one panelist described it.
Oooh almost without boundaries – are you excited yet? Does it remind you of that time you and all your friends got drunk at summer camp? Wasn’t that hilarious?
“Queer food defies categorization, and that’s its beauty,” said Megan J. Elias, who organized the conference with Alex D. Ketchum, an assistant professor at the Institute for Gender, Sexuality and Feminist Studies at McGill University in Montreal.
Ms. DuBose and Ms. Elias were among the some 160 food scholars, writers, students and industry professionals who last weekend paid $45 apiece to gather online and in classrooms and a cookbook library at Boston University for the inaugural Queer Food Conference. The mostly Millennial and Gen Z attendees considered food (pie, seaweed), food culture (potlucks, cookbooks) and food spaces (a co-op, clambakes) through queer, Marxist, feminist and anti-colonialist perspectives.
Meaning what? That they talked about food for a weekend. How very novel.
The goal of the event was to reclaim histories and imagine futures, not of a cuisine — queer food has no set taste profiles or geographic origins — but of food that “challenges binaries and any kind of normativity,” said Ms. Elias…
Yes! Down with normativity! Any kind of normativity! It’s perfectly fine to put ground glass in the tajine you’re preparing for your guests!
Despite the academic language, it wasn’t all brainy abstractions.
It wasn’t brainy anything. Pretentious, yes, but brainy, no. Trend-sucking of the worst kind.
Mx. Barbosa, who’s getting a master’s degree in gastronomy from Boston University, also brought along a “sleazy wine cake,” made with Marsala and coconut, and a pecan buttercrunch — recipes from the zine that they tested and ate with a friend who was recovering from top surgery.
And that’s what makes it queer food! The fact that someone who got a double mastectomy for no medical reason ate some it makes it queer food!
This may be the stupidest thing the NY Times has ever published.